Salvador to Belem

So this last 2 weeks have been a great blur of activity. I made if from Salvador to Belem in those two weeks with stops off in Morrow do Sao Paulo, Forteleza, and Jericaocoa. I am unable to upload some pics from this computer, so you'll have to take my word on how nice some of these places are.

Salvador:

This is said to be the afro center of Brazil. One of the oldest towns in South America and where the majority of the african slaves were brought. I stayed a bit out of the historical center in a more posh side called Barra (pronounced, Baha). This was the beach side of town too. (Yes, I have several new freckles)

After meeting some people in the hostel, I ended up staying a bit longer in Salvador than I had planned. It's laid back atmosphere, good cheap seafood, beaches and a really fun staff at the hostel added to that.

Capoera, is an art form that is from the Bahia state. It is a mix between martial arts and dancing to drums and a strange one stringed instrument. It is said to come from the slaves. They used it to practice fighting, but then was outlawed, so they added music to call it a dance so they could stay vigilant to their masters. I unfortunately didn't take any photographs, but its an interesting art to watch.

However, I found the historic side of town, although with well preserved colonial buildings, churches and cobble stone roads, was fairly annoying. It had a large stain of tourism across it. And I seemingly have a large stamp across my forehead that reads "Sell all your crappy tourist junk to me..." mix that in will extremely shady people offering girls, coke and pot with the street kids who will be a bit "physical" about their begging and I decided an hour there was enough for me.

So, after having good shrimp and squid cooked in a coconut sauce for dinner most nights, I left with a few other travelers I met to Morrow do Sao Paulo. There was 1 canadian girl (Gabby), 1 Europe/American guy, and a Belgium.

Morrow do Sao Paulo:

This is an island that is about 2 hours on a boat from Salvador. There are no cars, but mules and wheelbarrows. The streets are sand, and the dense jungle surrounds the town. There are 4 beaches easily accessed by foot, many have bars and caparinha stands to help you unwind from a stressful day.

Despite the glaring tourism, its a very fun island for the nightlife, swimming (sun burning), and the nice lack of crime. However, 2 days was enough and I moved on from there, routing back through Salvador, and north towards Forteleza, with 2 less. This time just me and Gabby.

Forteleza:

This, by a large margin, was the worst stop I've made so far. This town had 2 faces. One, giant skyscraper hotels lining a fairly unimpressive beach gouging tourist with steep prices, and a dirty industrial center with a large population of homeless.

The most interesting part of this place, was going to the federal police (at the airport) for Gabby to get an extension to her visa in Brazil, then getting lost on the bus system back to the hotel. It Literally took us 2pm to 8pm on the buses to get back. Least it was only $1.70 reals in total.

Here, I also learned the difficulties of doing anything on Sunday, being a day of rest, other than supermarkets and drug stores, everything is closed. So, these hot, expensive, slightly frustrating days, I booked a bus to Jericoacoa. A place that other travelers and Brazilians raved about.

Jericoacoa:

This is a national park and a small town. I took a bus leaving Forteleza about 5:30pm that arrived about 12:30 at night. We even had to change from a normal large comfortable bus, to a 4-wheel bus for the last hour of the ride. Despite the full moon, it was difficult to see much but palm and orange trees, and sand.

Once I arrived, I walked in the 3 road town for a bit, to find a bed. After stopping at a few places I found one that was $20 reals a night with breakfast in a dorm room (thats about $10 USD) and quickly I fell asleep.

After making it in time to breakfast (an important thing to do as it is free, yet difficult because it's morning, and somewhat as a rolling joke among hostel hoppers) I took a stroll. Jeri, is the wind surfing and kite surfing capital of brazil. Something I have never done, and unfortunately hadn't budgeted for. The town was surrounded by sand dunes you could explore by hired buggy as well.

Anyone looking for this kind of adventure, this was the place to do it. I didn't partake in what the city had to fully offer, as the prices weren't in my favor. However, the cheaper lodging and food in this place was inviting. I enjoyed sitting at the beach front restaurants and having the company of other travelers. However, the majority of my trips have been the beach, and these particular days I was hiding in the shade, letting the pink glow of my burnt skin fade, I decide to move on after 2 days.

I do think, however, this place warrants another visit.

Leaving Jeri was a tougher bit, the buses west didn't go very far, and according to the helpful hostel staff, could be pricey and you could be waiting in a dump of a bus station for hours for the connecting bus. So, instead, we jumped on a 4x4 truck headed from Jeri to jerioc (a nearby town with buses back to forteleza). This was by far a very interesting ride. This was what the locals took to get to and from Jeri, for a $5 you get to the next town, about an hour ride. The 4x4 flat bed had a roof, with no sides, or back door. Once that area filled up, more people stood on the back bummer, and several sat on top. Mind you, the 4x4 part was required as the roads were mostly sand. From that interesting ride we easily bought a ticket back to Forteleza, stayed at the bus station there for a few hours, and caught the bus to Sao Luis.

Sao Luis:

This is the only city in Brazil that was originally colonized by the French (who only had claim for something like 4 years before the Portuguese kicked them out...) Little did I know that I arrived here on a Holiday weekend, which didn't mean bigger nightlife.... it meant nobody was open for business. I mistook this as a town that didn't have much to offer, and I left sunday without this knowledge.

Despite that detail, the city was filled with colonial buildings, half of which were inhabited by a large population of stray cats... Oh the things your learn while traveling... I also fell asleep (accidentily) instead of making it out to a reggae party (famous in Sao Luis).

Feeling slightly like I hadn't accomplished much, I moved on. The group grew as we met some more people headed towards Manaus to 4 of us, the new addition was 2 guys from Italy, who had been living in Ireland for the last few years.


Belem:

This is where I am a the point of authoring this post. I arrived on Sunday morning, about 7:30 am and from the station a $12 real (split 4 ways) took us to the hostel.

This town so far has been more rewarding than I had imagined. The main reason I came to this town was to get a river boat up the Amazon river to Menaus (the largest city in the Amazon). But, the regal beauty and enticing city here has me surprised. The boat leaves for me on Tuesday, of which I am now traveling with 6 people, and we spend the few days here exploring the colonial city of Belem. An Aussie and a Welshman are the new additions.

For the river boat we will be staying on hammocks, so today, the group of us went looking for a good deal. Knowing, the leverage of buying 6 hammocks could get us a good deal. We spent about 2 hours walking around the old city and the out door market that hid there. Our first stop (closest to the boat station) offered the price with the standard gringo tax, a hammock for about $70 reals ($35 USD). So, we kept moving. Yes we are gringos, but it didn't mean we wanted to pay gringo prices. Besides, my Portuguese, and several of the others was good enough to hold a haggling conversation. We eventually settled on the second place we visited (after seeing about a dozen more) and were able to get some quality (seemingly) hammocks for $14-15 USD.

It's going to be a pain lugging it around but I think it'll make it home and add to my furniture collection.

So here I am, 2 degrees south of the equator, about to spend 5 days on a boat headed into the amazon, with 5 other travelers... you could say I'm excited. I will try to find a good computer in Menaus to get some more photos. For those of you that made it this far, check the google map out, I put points on all the locations for your reference. Enjoy :)

Hope all is good in the western world, take care,

Ate Mais

Obama Abroad

Hey Hey,

So I thought I had it all figured out, with my ballet put in at the US Consulate in Rio.. but I arrive in Salvador to receive an email from the Boulder office saying I was missing a form for my vote to count. (Honestly, because I was having fun...) I didn't get to fixing this problem by faxing the completed form to the Boulder office until Tuesday. 3 fax places later, I found one that would do it.. The results didn't really come in until this morning, as 3am there is 5am here, so I was happy to awake to hear about Obama's victory. The owners of the hostel I am at, as well as the brazilians I have talked to and other travelers were also very happy to see America finally got their heads out of their asses and voted in a positive direction.

I don't have tons of time to post today, but I will soon as well as updating my photos... but unfortunately I'm having too much fun to stop, find a computer place (not really that hard) and spend a few hours updating .. haha.. I wait until the weather gets worst. But for now... 90s and sunny with a beautiful blue ocean is taking my attention.

I'm writing this from Salvador and today I head via boat to an island off the coast by 2 hours, called Morrow do Sao Paulo that I hear from all the other travelers is a must... something about swimming with dolphins...

The closer I get to my plane flight home, the better I get a Portuguese, and the more I am having fun as learning the language opens many doors, the harder it's getting convincing myself its almost over... then I thank my foresight and remember I have a flexible plane ticket... Feel free to email me, I generally check that more frequently as I pay by the time of computer usage.

'tchau todas pessoas!!

On The Road Again: Leaving Rio & Paraty

So after a long stay in Rio, it was hard to leave and get back on the road.

I think, when you spend that much time in one place you get comfortable, and routine sets in. Breaking from that is one of the reasons I wanted to travel, so it was shocking to find a routine in Rio. Finally, I had enough, and got reservations in Paraty, which is about 4 hours south of Rio by bus.

Leaving was easier than I thought it would be and the ride was very nice. I got the luck of sitting next to an English girl who had been traveling in South America for the last 2 months. She exchanged tips and we chatted for quite a bit, before departing after the bus had arrived in Paraty. The bus itself was very comfortable, for $40 reals it was air conditioned with reclining seats and a good amount of leg space. I can't remember traveling so well before.

It was interesting to hear other people's impression of Rio, most of the people I spoke with were in the touristy side of town, and only for a few days. With that kind of stay, Rio sounds expensive and hectic. I enjoyed staying in the neighborhood quite a bit, but for a S. American stop, Rio doesn't seem that popular. Interested the different way people travel, and see things.

Paraty is a small beach town that caters a lot to tourism. It seems a popular stay for the gringos and brazilians just the same. The hostel I stayed in was very nice with lots of services. I met up with a guy from Scotland and a few Austrailians. First day we hired some bikes, and rode for about 8 kilomiters (5 miles about) to find some waterfalls. The day was very warm, and once we got to the pools, the cold water felt very refreshing. In this place we there was sliding on the rocks you can do. Hopefully if the internet here doesn't fail me there will be a pictures you can see of it. Also, head to youtube and search Paraty surfing, and you'll see what the locals do. My wisdom told me not to stand like them however...

Next day after a bit with the local bar I went into the old town center to do a bit of shopping. Nothing all that interesting, and I didn't take many photos. But, it was all cobblestone roads with no cars which was nice.

From that, I went with an Austrailian bloke to Trinadade, a beach area 20 minutes by bus. It was a good time, but full up with weekend travelers. Spent an hour and $10 reals on a surf board, but was unable to catch any waves. I will before I leave S. America.

Now I sit in São Paulo, the mega-metropolis of the south, and I already miss the beaches. I am going go-karting in the largest go kart track in the world in few minutes with some of the other hostel folks here, then tomorrow I get back on the road to Salvador, which is going to be interestings... 30 hour bus ride north, but there are beaches there...

Carioca

So it has been, now over 3 weeks and I'm still in Rio.

Carioca, is a word with depth out here. It's the name of one of neighborhoods here in downtown. They also use it widely to describe the people from Rio, and their friendly aloof-ness. I'm not anywhere near getting to use that term on myself, as you have to be fluent in Portuguese to get that title. Gringo is the popular and unoffensive word for people not from Rio.

The attitude here is positive one and very relaxed, no one ever seems to busy to give lengthy directions when asked. Or helping correct my Portuguese when I explain that I'm still learning.

The neighborhood I am staying in is Santa Teresa. It's in the mountains (no where near the size of the Rockys I'm use to in our backyards). But, this area is undergoing some cultural renewal of sorts. The last of the Bonde (cable cars, street cars) run from Santa Teresa down to Carioca. Which is fun to ride. To hang on to the Bonde it is free, and to sit is 60 centavos (or about $0.30 USD). It doesn't run as often as buses, but its a nice different way to get to Central, as it clambers over the top of Arches do Lapa, or what looks like a very old roman aqueduct structure. I will make sure to get pictures before I leave, but Lapa isn't the nicest part of the city.

Speaking of Lapa, on weekends a few block section, under the arches becomes a giant street party. It can be a bit rough however, the police are very strict and violent. This last Saturday, I was greeted by witnessing a shuffling between some kids, quickly broken up by the police, who were beating the offenders with their clubs. The kids were quick and got away, but I'm sure they will be very sore the next day after receiving a few blows from a large, angry and aggressive looking officer. (Mom, I'll give you my friend's name who pulled me out of the way just in time not to be in the way of the running offenders or the police as they stepped on my toes in their fleeing, and you can thank him later).

But, either way, you find samba and drum bands in the street playing with people dancing all around. Dozens of carts and stands constructed to feed and 'hydrate' us. Here you can find the popular drink in Rio, called caparinha (kap-ah-een-neeyah) which is often cheaper than a bottle of water ($2 reals, or about $1 USD), comprised of loads of sugar, mushed lime, and this liquor from distilled sugar cane called cachaça (ka-shas-ca). A few of these later, and you can stubble into any of the dance clubs found there. Often guys have to pay twice what girls do, but its fun. After some fun unwinding, ending the night as the sun rises, you grab a cab.

The rest of the city is, as I'm sure like other cities, filled with large building and plenty of shopping. There is loads of street vending all over the city, but largely in the Carioca burrow. Here you can buy pretty much anything you want, and people are very eager to sell you things. A bit of negotiating helps, and things are generally of the low end of quality. But its nice when you need something.

The Beaches, Copacabana and Ipanema are the popular ones. Think blue ocean with decent sized waves, and lots of sun soaking bodies. Speedos amoung men isn't as big as I had imagined, but exist. Thongs for the ladies seem very much in style, no matter what size you are. I will be spending a few days in a hostle in Ipanema before heading out of the city.

I'm uploading pictures now, so I will update in a bit.

Meu Casa

Oí

As it goes, classes started Monday for me to learn Portuguese. An infinitively difficult language to pronounce, and all this Spanish is getting in the way. Oh well... practico muito...

Since Sunday it has been cloudy, with patches of light to fairly heavy rain. Unlike Colorado, the water stays around for a while. And today and yesterday were also very cold? What the...

Well, what that really means is that I got my only pair of pants wet and they are still damp, Doh!!

A bit about the house

Like I was saying, next to a extended family living here, there are about 10 other travelers. 1 American girl, who had many of the same ideas of travel I did, but has settled here in Rio and found a job teaching English. 2 Danish guys, they are going to the University and studying, I've never been so jealous to speak so many languages. There are also handful of French girls that may get me in trouble, and some very sincere Argentineans.

Most of them speak English, so it's nice, and the American girl, Lauren, seems happy to talk again to another American.

The house is quite large, everyday I seemingly find a new section, and there are 3 floors, I think. A large back section exsites, but I don't think I'll get to explore it as it seems to be the grandma's area, maybe also where the house servant sleeps. There is also a small nest of a room, haphazardly built in at some later point to provide another room. Which, that is where I am staying. It's nice, however, and more than I expected. With a single bed (foam on a board) and a bath room (plastic sink/shower/door..). And it is separated from the house, which provides me some peace from the family's ruckus.

The downstairs has a handful of rooms, I'm not sure how many, and a small pool. It's, unfortunatly, not much to look at, but the view from the patio area is awesome looking out onto Northern Rio.

It has been fun experience to spend time with the travelers, as in a large enough group, decisions break out into the home languages. I'd hear Dutch, French, Portuguese and English.. if only I had studied languages more. -Oh well..

Right now I am looking forward to the weather becoming a bit nicer, when its 60-ish and raining, it's not all that nice to go around town.

I will spend more time talking about Rio in another post when I have some pictures to share.

'till then, tchau

Should have brought my laptop...

Well, now I´m 36 hours in and getting settled.

The first day was ...challenging both in getting around and feeling comfortable. The city is mixed between the poor side, the metropolis Central, the middle class area, Santa Teresa, Gloria (where I´m staying) and the beach/tourist side Copacabana/Ipañima.

And the Airport is outside of town. Not many natives speak a lick of English and my little knowledge of Spanish is going a long way. In two days time I´m able to say simple things to order food and get around on the Ônibus (on ee boo s). Food is cheaper, and the buses are everywhere. Finding the right one is the hard part.

I´m staying in Sologran´s in Santa Teresa which is up on a hill side and looks north west into the central city, on the other side of the hill and a bit to the east are the beaches. I´m staying here with a few other travelers all about my age. So far I have met 6 or so, mostly Europeans and 1 other American. They all love it here and are studying more than just portuguese. I´m excited to be here and feel comfortable with this group. From the sounds of it there´s lots to see and when I know more Portuguese I will be happier to talk with the locals.

Well back to it, I think I want to learn how to surf...
(no pic´s yet, soon)
Bon Dia

Wait What... I'm Going Somewhere?

Here we are, last day of work came and went. Really?

Wednesday I wrapped up as much as possible for inventory for the store I work(ed) at, said my 'faerwells' and clocked out for the final time. Really?

Tomorrow I am leaving to spend the weekend in Sunnyvale (about an hour south of San Francisco) with my friend Chris Bunch. Sweet, vacation! Really?

After that 'pre-vacation' I return to Boulder Tuesday, September 9th, for about 17 hours, enough for sleep, packing, last minute preparations and then again I head to DIA (routed through D.C.) and land in Rio, Brazil September 11th 9am (Brazilian time)... Really?

Are you sure this is happening... 'cas I'm not.

7 days...